The fashion industry is an ever-evolving realm, ceaselessly seeking fresh opportunities to sell beyond the traditional two-season calendar. Alongside the core Spring and Fall collections that grace the runway, there are pre-collections, acting as more commercial ventures designed to bridge the gap between product deliveries. These include Pre-Fall (essentially summer) and Pre-Spring (alternatively known as winter, Resort or Cruise).
This summer, a new trend has emerged as luxury brands launch limited-edition product lines devoted exclusively to beachwear. Fendi, for instance, recently unveiled an astrology-themed collection, drawing inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld's '90s collections. This line features swimsuits, cover-ups and other beach accessories. Louis Vuitton, on the other hand, introduced LV by the Pool, a comprehensive collection boasting everything from monogram-donned hats, bags and scarves to branded chairs, towels and even a hammock. Versace collaborated with Dua Lipa to release La Vacanza, following a Cannes runway show. Other brands like Balmain, Givenchy and Burberry have also joined the trend, creating exclusive collections with retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom.
Rickie de Sole, Women's Fashion Director at Nordstrom, highlights how these capsule collections allow stores to partner with brands in unique ways, sometimes even leading to the creation of entirely new products. "Recently, we partnered with Missoni on an exclusive swimwear capsule created from some of their most storied archival textiles. This was the first time Missoni used upcycled materials to create a capsule, making it an exciting moment to share with our customers," she shares. Nordstrom's partnership with Burberry on its beachwear collection came at an interesting time for the brand, as Daniel Lee had just debuted at the house. This timing, coupled with the uniqueness of Lee's designs, makes this launch particularly enticing. "We love the way he's been playing with ways to work their iconic check. This offers a fun summer take on Burberry icons," de Sole comments.
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While these types of collections aren't entirely new - Dior, Valentino and Chanel have all previously released similar lines - what sets the current trend apart is its widespread adoption. These collections now stand on their own, separate from pre-seasons or runway propositions, and customers are responding positively. "Thanks to social media, everyone has grown accustomed to showing off their vacations and holiday outfits. As a result, we've seen more interest in the category and demand for escape wardrobe solutions," says de Sole. As brands witness these products selling, they begin to integrate them into their inventory calendar. In time, they could become as commonplace as the made-up Pre-Fall and Resort collections. In the case of Valentino Escape and Fendi Astrology, these brands are tapping into nostalgia by resurrecting archival motifs, generating buzz amongst the fashion community online. It's not about essentials or "must-haves" — it's about satisfying a craving for novelty and exclusivity. After all, who else will have a Louis Vuitton lounger?
